Mount Liamuiga is the tallest peak on the small island of St Kitts. The island has a range of mountains for its size. Mount Liamuiga is a volcano. When I heard about this hike, I was enticed by the views that one could see from the top of the Caribbean sea, the island itself and the nearby islands. I decided to take a local bus to the trailhead instead of a taxi to save money and also experience local culture.
I started late from the Airbnb place, by the time I reached the ferry terminal, it was around noon. All the buses going on the west side of the Island start in front of the ferry terminal. I didn’t know that, I had given up on taking a bus as I didn’t see any bus on the way. So I had decided to take Nevis Ferry and check out Nevis island instead. They didn’t have a ferry till two hours later. So asked the bus (bus in Caribbean is a small van capable of seating about 10-12 people) guy if he was going towards Newton Ground and he was. Trailhead is 2kms inland from the town of Newton Ground.
I got in the bus but as is custom in these islands, bus drivers wait till the bus is full before they start the journey. After 10-15 minutes we were on our way. You can request a stop anywhere you may like, so when I saw the board for hiking trail, I asked for a stop. I paid 2.75XCD for the ride.
The walk to the trailhead from the main road is a slight incline all the way on a concrete road. I took about 25 minutes to reach the trailhead. On the way to the trailhead, I had splendid views of both Sint Eustatius and Saba islands.
It was 1PM in the afternoon. I asked a group of people returning from the hike as to how long did they take for the hike. They took 5 hours for the entire trip. I had read that it takes around 4 hours somewhere. I didn’t have the luxury of 5hours for the hike. I wanted to get back to the town before sunset. Sunset is at 6PM. So calculated a time when I would turn back even if it meant I had to miss the summit. I decided I will turn back at 3PM whatever be the situation. I will be back at town by 5:30PM which will give me enough time to catch a bus or taxi.
I started the hike immediately. It was a relief to be under canopy cover. The last twenty minutes or so walk was under afternoon sun. The path was well marked. There was a pig from the neighboring farm which ran after seeing me. I was making steady progress. After 15 minutes, met a couple returning back from the hike. Now it meant that I was the only going up the mountain. There was no other cars parked in the parking lot. And assuming no one else is foolish enough to do a hike in the afternoon arriving without a ride back home.
As I was gaining height, it became cooler and the vegetation changed as well.
It was a steady incline but not demanding. It was all under forest cover, so I had no idea where I was and how far it was to the summit. But the markings kept reassuring me that I am right on track. I kept climbing, with occasional pauses for water or for catching my breath. After about an hour, I still had no clue about the summit or where I was. Now I was getting exhausted and my pace began to decline. My mind started playing its tricks now. I wanted the 3PM deadline to come soon so that I can head back. But I kept climbing at a slow pace.
It was one and a half hours of steady climb but I hadn’t come out of the forest cover, nor there was a single clearing from where I could catch a view of the plains or the summit. Now, I wasn’t looking for a summit but for a clearing. I would be disappointed multiple times when I thought I was near a clearing.
My spirits were declining but I kept moving. The climb started getting steeper. It gave me hope that end might be near. After 15 minutes of steep climb, I came to a clearing. I could see the sea afar. I was happy to have had that view. On the other side, I could see a valley. Beyond the valley was a taller mountain which I assumed to be Mount Liamuiga. I continued after taking pics. But I reached a dead end soon. The mountain I was on had a peak further ahead. Then it occurred to me that the valley is the crater and I am on the rim of the volcano.
I had made it 5 minutes before the deadline to turn back. So the climb was a bit under 2 hours. I spent some time at the top. There was a path to get down into the crater. I neither had time nor the energy to get down into the crater. I made it back to the trailhead after 1.5 hours. And I made it back to Basseterre before it was dark.
