Acatenengo

Volcan El Fuego (literally the Fire Volcano)

I used to be a meticulous travel planner. I used to plan every detail of the trip. I would research and find all the places of interest and chart an optimized route. I used to even read about the history of the place before stepping on its soil. Call it maturity or ageing, now I just land and discover the place. I had no idea about Aktun Tunichil Muknal (ATM Caves) until I was in the hostel in San Pedro. Similarly, I discovered Acatenango Volcano when I was in Antigua Guatemala. I think travelling this way is much more enjoyable and gives you freedom and flexibility.

I had booked my shuttle to Copan from Panajachel which involves one night stay in Antigua and then you proceed towards Copan the next morning. When I got to Antigua is when I found about this hike. So after spending a night in Copan, I decided to come back to Antigua and do the hike. I booked the hike at the hostel. I was told to carry 4 litres of water, warm clothes and a backpack. 2 litres for self-use and 2 litres for common use like cooking.

Starting our trek at the base of Acatenango

A shuttle arrived at the appointed time and took a bunch of us to the base camp. There we got warm clothes, a stick and backpacks. We met our guides. Then started off the climb, it was a gradual ascent in midst of fields. The volcanic soil here is very fertile and farmers grow a variety of crops including corn. When we reached the ticketing office, we were in the tropical forest. Vegetation on the volcano changes as we go higher up. We paid the entry and took a small break.

As we proceeded to climb on the zig-zag route, we started seeing cloud forests with an occasional cloud hanging around. After about an hour’s climb, we reached our lunch spot. We were served a sandwich and juice. While the guides were making themselves Tortillas and beans for lunch. They offered me some. It was the best Tortilla ever. After a strenuous climb with a hungry stomach, everything feels delicious but this was really delicious.

It was getting chilly at the lunch spot, so the layers and jackets were on. As we climbed higher we entered the Alpine forest area. We were above the clouds now and it was sunny. There were pretty flowers all over and the scene from here was breathtaking. I clicked photos away to glory. On a clear day, you can see Lake Atitlan and the surrounding volcanoes from here. We did see them and it was pretty cool.

We took a lot of small breaks till we reached the almost same height as our camp. Here, the path was almost flat and on black volcanic soil. The mountain face was black and the path cutting through it created an incredible scene. Once we crossed this face of the mountain, we were on the face of the mountain facing Volcan Fuego. We could now hear the volcano erupting. After half an hour of walk, we reached our campsite and were face to face with our active volcano.

I put the bag down and sat on the bench watching the volcano erupt. It was sunny then and clouds were playing hide and seek covering over the volcano. It was a well-deserved break with hot chocolate being served by our guides who turned cooks at the campsite. This is where the extra 2 litres of water was being used.

It started getting chilly as the sun was going down. We huddled around a campfire and started talking about various things. Soon, dinner was served. It was time for us to wind down and hit the bed. We were to hike early in the morning to summit Acatenango. I couldn’t sleep, my feet were cold. It was sometime after 11 PM that I got the sleep but I was waking up every now and then. It was announced at 3:45 AM that we were not doing the summit hike because of the winds. I was relieved. I didn’t have proper rest and that hike would have been very difficult for me.

We got up around 6 AM and had breakfast. We started our way down soon. It was smooth except for the last stretch of loose soil. I fell 4 times. We made our way back to basecamp and were soon on to Antigua.

Rebuli – Chicken Bus to Panajachel

I was looking to get to Panajachel from Flores. I didn’t have any plan or interest for Guatemala City but was disappointed to find out there are no direct buses from Flores to Panajachel or anywhere on Lake Atitlan. I found out there are chicken buses that run from Guatemala City to Panajachel but not many were sure about it. I decided to take a chance. Chicken buses are old US school buses, most of them manufactured by the company Blue Bird Corporation.

The chicken bus to Panajachel is run by Transportes Rebuli. I found this blog post that detailed how to get to the start point of Rebuli bus. Unfortunately, I cannot find the post again now. Fortunately, someone has marked the place in Google Maps. It is walkable from Estacion El Amate. The bus’s starting point is a workshop/shed. You will find all their buses parked if you are there before the first bus leaves. I had arrived here straight from the bus stand where the overnight bus from Flores had dropped me. There is a restroom here, I made use of that and got freshened up. I was there at 7:30 AM but the first bus leaves at 8:30 AM. So took the time to relax. The bus left exactly at 8:30 AM but turns out they wait for passengers at zone 9, only when they get enough (whatever number that is), they leave. We were there in zone 9 at 8:50 AM but the bus didn’t leave till 9:40 AM. Then it took a little more than 3.5 hours to reach Panajachel.

Board in front of the Rebuli Bus Station

Those who have traveled in rural buses in India will not find chicken bus any different. While we were waiting at zone 9 for passengers, I was reminded of the Kalasipalyam bus stand. There were hawkers here too who board the bus and sell their wares just like in Kalasipalyam. The difference is that in Guatemala, local police board the bus and check the IDs of all passengers.

Here in this bus trip, I heard for the first time the Mayan tongue being spoken by a Maya family. They wore a traditional Maya dress and were cheerful the whole time.

P.S – I undertook this journey in January first week of 2020.